Leaving Mendoza behind, I started my way back over the Andes to Santiago, but with the mountains looking so spectacular blanketed in snow in the depth of winter, it seemed a shame not to stop on the way and spend some time at altitude. I was joined by Lukas, a German who was headed the same way and so we got the bus up to the tiny border town of ‘Puenta del Inca’ named after a natural and spectacular geological ‘bridge.’ In the Summer months, this small town is a pretty busy tourist town, the starting point for groups wanting to climb the 6,962 metre (22,841 ft) peak of Aconcagua. At this time of year, it’s pretty dead, and seemed to have only one place to stay – the Hostelria – which was full.

Puenta del Inca. and a gnarly old tree.

As we contemplated the rather chilly prospect of walking 6km back down the hill with great big backpacks, to the small ski resort of Penetentes, where we had been pointed by the not-so-helpful guy in the hostelria, we thought we’d ask in the shop if there was anywhere else. He was only slightly more helpful, suggesting the Army base that was over the road (and almost twice the size of the whole town!) as a possibility of lodgings…

We didn’t hold out much hope, but found that the base was down to a skeleton crew of only about 20 soldiers at this time of year, as their busy season for training, and mountain rescue, was the Summer, so they were renting out rooms in the Officers mess (and at a considerably lower price than the Hostelria!) This is the second time I had stayed in an Officers mess, with the first time being last year after hosting a wine tasting evening for the Officers at RAF St Athan near Cardiff (one of the most drunken nights of my life…those guys know how to drink!) but that’s a whole other story!

"The Army Hotel"

Lukas and I went for a couple of really good walks that day and the next, even though the altitude really was noticeable on the inclines, leaving us short of breath when it hardly seemed as though we were exerting ourselves! The altitude also had the effect of aiding the effect of the evening’s alcohol on my system… a couple of beers and a bottle of wine between us and I was pretty well on my way!

Spectacular scenery, but a bit chilly!

The wine that night, out of interest was the Familia Cassone ‘La Florencia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. Federico Cassone had invited me to visit the family winery, but time had become short in my last few days in Mendoza so I couldn’t make it this time. So in honour of him, when I saw it in the limited selection available in the one shop in Puenta del Inca, we had to give it a try – not a premium wine, but perfectly pleasant and good value, nicely enough balanced and not over fruity for an Argentinian…

Familia Cassone 'La Florencia' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

We were extremely lucky to get on the bus when we did the next afternoon, because the snow started coming down pretty heavily almost as soon as it had picked us up, and later that evening, the pass was closed to traffic. The driver, who I’m sure was aware of the impending bad weather, wasted no time at all, and in order to get through before they closed the border, was throwing that minibus into the increasingly icy switchbacks at great speed – making it one of the scariest driving experiences of my life! But if he hadn’t got us through, I would have found myself stranded in Argentina, with a plane to catch from Santiago – as my friend John, who was planning on following the next day, did unfortunately – terrible luck, after the pass had been clear for a good six weeks until that particular day!