Buenos Aires « www.winetraveller.net

Posted by: Alex | June 30, 2008

Buenos Aires

After our brief, and rather soggy time at the Iguazu falls, we headed down to Buenos Aires for the rest of the week. Rather than giving a day by day run down of our touristy activities, I thought I’d give a run-down of my favourite eateries near where we were staying, along with some of our holiday snaps.

Tango bar in San Telmo

We were staying in San Telmo, a very bohemian end of town seemingly caught in a time warp – like the Paris portrayed in Moulin Rouge, with Tango clubs, bars and Parilla restaurants on every corner. The feel of the place, with narrow streets and beautiful, somewhat run-down architecture, is very much like a French or Italian city, and the thirty year old European cars everywhere add to the illusion. Like the USA, Argentina is a country of immigrants, with one of the lowest proportions of indigenous peoples in South America, so the culture has a definite Mediterranean influence, while having its own twist.

San Telmo seems to be the hub of reasonably-priced dining, as long as you like steak, and home made pasta. My friend Aaron, after having been in Argentina for a while now, finds himself longing for spicy food, but so far the novelty of fantastic steak has not worn off…

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Each of these was so good, even in the short time we were in town, we found ourselves going back – one visit was not enough! We found each of these using the -if the place is buzzing with locals it must be good- theory, which I can recommend for anywhere in the world! We got lucky early on with these I think, because we had a couple of pretty shakey experiences of eateries in San Telmo too.

‘Parilla Des Nivel’ on Defensa.
Very simple: Outstandingly good, heavily seasoned steak + hot grill = busy restaurant.
It has to be said that the quality of their salads and chips were pretty ordinary, but stop being a pansy westerner with all these side-dishes, and just eat cow! Mmm.. Bife de lomo… Good wine specials too – they had a great price on the Norton Terrunyo Malbec when we were there – it’s balanced reliable stuff with good robust fruit and structure, suiting the simply cooked steak to a T

Norton Finca Perdriel Terrunyo Malbec 2005

Telmo Bar’ on Carlos Calvo.
Where we went for lunch on our first day – popular with locals for their inexpensive homemade pastas and empanadas. I particularly enjoyed the meatballs, which along with the atmosphere with tango music in the air was a great way to get ourselves into the swing of BA. If you’re struggling to find it, it’s worth noting that it’s not actually a bar – more of a bistro.

Bar Federal, home to dusty bottles and delicious tapas

‘Bar Federal’ on Carlos Calvo.
Ok, so steak every night doesn’t agree with you? Go for the (lighter) option with a big platter of cured meats and cheeses between you. Great value wine list, and right next door to where we were staying. Lovely.

But be warned, not all bars are as good at it as these guys are… we went to one place where the cheese and meats platter was quantity rather than quality, with cubes of luncheon meat, salami and bulk cheddar!

…and now for the photos. Buenos Aires is such a photogenic city!