Ah Tasmania! Sitting out on it’s own, it is often forgotten by backpackers ‘doing Australia’ but I’m thoroughly glad I took the time to visit before moving on to New Zealand -and yes, apparently that is the correct name for people from Tasmania…

After a blindingly early start in Bondi, Tim and I flew on down to the state capital Hobart to begin our two week lap of the island. On our first afternoon, we were lucky enough to find ourselves in the ‘Grape’ winebar and bottleshop, where we sampled some recommendations, and got the lowdown from the guys in there which wineries would be worth a look. It was great to be travelling with a fellow wino – Tim and I worked together back in Bristol, and subsequently ran branches of Oddbins wine merchants for a number of years. Tim is also a dab hand in the kitchen – so back at the Backpackers, it was steak and Serafino Tempranillo from ‘Grape’ that evening.

The next day we picked up our hire car and went out to see some of the local sights, namely some wineries! Home Hill – a boutique winery with a rather lovely cellar door and restaurant, as well as some excellent, robust Pinot Noirs and both dry and sweet Sylvaner – a variety more usually seen in Germany. Of those that we tried, it was the 2004 Kelly’s Reserve Pinot Noir that we decided to take with us, it hada rich nose of plums and nice depth on the palate with some development already and tannins leaving that pleasing dusty feel in the mouth.

For lunch we were in for a treat – Tom who I had worked with at Kemenys in Bondi, and who had worked in Tasmania a few years ago, recommended I try the beers from the microbrewery at Moorilla Estate. After walking into the lavish building – full of a mix of modern art and rare antiquities, we settled on the balcony of the restaurant. After ordering a different ‘Moo brew’ each – we were convinced by the waitress to try the chef’s taster menu – it was far from cheap, but toasting the start of the holiday, we decided to treat ourselves to one of the most gourmet lunches either of us had ever had! Spectacular.

The beers were fantastic; Unpasturised, which gave them spectacular depth of flavour – and makes drinking it here at the source the best way to enjoy them. The Hefeweizen and the Pale Ale were our favourites, both having an extra rich creaminess. Being unpasturised also meant that they have to be transported in refrigerated containers to the mainland where only a handful of very select bars sell it – if you can find them, and they have any in – try some.

Lunch and the Moo brews were a hard act to follow, but the wines at Moorilla ceratinly grabbed our attention! Perhaps for the wrong reasons though – the labels – black and white photos of nude dancers (all very arty and tasteful, don’t get me wrong) have a strong presence in the architectural surroundings of the tasting room, but were a little much when I had seen them on the shelf in Grape the day before – and with a high turnover of winemaking staff in the last few years, there did not seem to be a consistency in their style – the Sauvignon blanc for example was trying a little too hard to not-be a Marlborough style, resulting in a rather lean style lacking the subtlety and mineral complexity of a decent Sancerre.

It was the 1998 Riesling that happened to be open (with the old-style label too!) that really had me hooked – rich nose, with some petrol, some ripeness and on the palate more residual sugar (a warm year down here apparently) the texture was not oily though, livened up by a little sharp honey character. The latest Riesling, the 2007 is also pleasant, but in a totally different style – a more savoury nose, with green apple and some grapefuit acidity, which gets a bit much after a while, building on the palate – but it’s young yet. Verdict: drink their beer. If you can get it.